Tri Canine Campus

Adding eggs to your dog's diet

Fri, 02 May 2025 19:00:47 GMT

Adding eggs to your Dog’s diet

The kibble and canned food that we purchase for our dogs are cooked at a very high temperature which degrades the nutrients in the food. Dog food manufacturers are forced to add those nutrients back into the food.

Eggs contain every vitamin (except vitamin C), mineral and protein that a dog needs in its diet.

Please watch the following videos which go much more into the do’s and don’ts when feeding eggs to your dog.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0zBPPDXpvUw https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sN3I1bhieDc https://www.youtube.com/shorts/ezxy5_vCOwo

The posting of these links does not necessarily mean that TCC endorses any of the other training methods or information presented by those authors!

Pack Walk Objective

Sun, 30 Mar 2025 21:46:12 GMT

Tri Canine Campus Pack Walks

The primary purpose of the Tri Canine Campus (TCC) Pack Walk is to promote a dog’s “neutrality” in a public scenario.

What is expected of the dogs during the pack walk:

No interaction between any of the dogs.
No Interaction with people during the exercises
No Reactivity (barking, whining or pulling)

What is expected of the handler’s during the pack walk:

Attention to the dog’s demeanor
Structure and focus the duration of the class
Be aware of your surroundings

Exercises:

Leave your dog with a stranger while you are out of eyesight for a short time.
Sit with space to simulated pedestrian traffic. The dog’s focus is on the handler.
Sit with reduction of space to others. The dog’s focus to remain on the handler.
Down with space to simulated pedestrian traffic. The dog’s focus is on the handler.
Down with reduction of space to others. The dog’s focus to remain on the handler.
“Weave” command. Walking a dog through simulated ‘high traffic’ conditions while maintaining the dogs focus.
Down stay with the handlers at a short distance. Pedestrians walking between the owner and the dog. The dogs are to maintain focus on their handlers.
Confidence building through the use of stairs, escalators and elevators. Dogs are to sit in the middle of the stairs and the duration of the escalator / elevator use. Focus should be on the handler.

Scenarios:

Parks
Downtown
Stores

The Pack Walk is an advanced class offered by TCC. Prior to being allowed on a pack walk, the handler – dog teams have gone through at least several months of and passed the training to learn how to engage and control their dogs through structured exercises. All the dogs attending the Pack Walk have undergone extensive training in impulse control and basic obedience. Some of the handler – dog teams are preparing for or are fine tuning their Therapy Dog / Service Dog training.

We have our Pack Walks in Clarkston, Waterford, Auburn Hills, Rochester Hills, and surrounding areas!

Engaging your dog

Tue, 11 Mar 2025 14:07:52 GMT

Engaging your dog

When a professional dog trainer is discussing focus, he is in fact discussing ‘engaging’ WITH your dog. What does the term “engage” mean? It means that you are physically interacting with your pup in a manner that keeps the dog’s attention on you.

Why is focus so important? Why does a dog “react” to its surroundings? When a dog sees a squirl and chases after it, it is satisfying its “prey drive”, it is ‘reacting’ to its instinct. When a dog starts barking at another dog, it is satisfying its pack drive, the need to interact with that other dog and be social (whether for good or bad). When a dog sees a scrap of food on the ground and pulls towards it, it is satisfying its food drive. To overcome these drives and have complete focus from our furry friend, we need to be something more interesting than all of the above-mentioned distractions.

When a dog ‘engages’ with you, you are providing all of the stimulation that it derives from the above the mentioned scenarios, hence keeping its focus.

Someone might ask if training with your dog or working with your dog is engaging them? Well, yes and no. While you are training with your dog, is he/she completely engrossed with you? Do you have your pups’ undivided attention? If the answer is ‘no’, or ‘mostly’, or only ‘sometimes’ then “working” with your dog is not truly having him/her engage WITH you.

Is loving on your dog ‘engaging’ them? Well, yes and no, again. If after loving on your dog for an hour you decide to take a walk, is your dog being reactive to its surroundings to a point that you cannot get them focused on you? If the answer here is yes, then ‘love’ is not creating a bond that will enable you to capture your pup’s attention in those trying times. Whatever is getting your dog to react is more important than the attention you have been giving.

What does it then mean to “engage” your dog then? It means that you have been offering direct interaction with your pup that makes you more interesting than the environment you find yourself in.

When working with puppies, what do the majority desire the most? Treats. When a distraction occurs, you need to be able to one, stop the puppy from ‘engaging’ the distraction. Using a leash solves this problem. Then, offer the puppy something more enticing than the distraction. A high value treat coupled with a higher pitched happy voice and definitely some movement backwards to draw them in, is required to get them ‘engaged’ (excited) with you. You have given the puppy something more interesting than the distraction and his/her focus is now on you.

As the puppy ages, treats will become less important and that instinctual prey drive increases. Have you ever seen a puppy clobber the rake while out cleaning up the fall leaves? Chase the mop as it swishes across the kitchen floor? To create a bond that has your dog truly focused on you, this prey drive needs to be developed into “play” drive. By playing with your dog, you are directly satisfying his/her prey drive. The dog knows that it will be rewarded by interacting with you.

Not all dogs know how to play, it needs to be taught to them. Two of the most effective toys to use to help with the play drive are a ball and a tug toy. Frisbees also make for an effective training tool.

To capture your dogs’ undivided attention, these toys need to be valuable to your dog. That begs the question, if you want to use a ball as the training tool, is having a bunch of balls lying around the house going to help with training? To answer this question, we have to ask ourselves what is valuable to us as a person? Is it something that is readily and easily accessible to us or something that is scarce and hard to obtain? Obviously, those items that are most desired are those that are almost always just out of reach. The tool should only be used when training-playing!

The next ingredient, just as important as the tool to be used to encourage play drive, is your energy that you bring to the play. Standing around and just tossing a toy is not getting your pup to engage with you. What happens when all you are doing is throwing the ball? Your dog is concentrating only on the ball. We need that focus on you. To do so, you need to draw your pup into you, not chase them. A good example. You execute a recall, the pup returns to you and you treat the recall. Once the pup has received its reward, it knows the ‘engagement’ is over and its focus ends. However, if once you have given that treat you explosively remove yourself from you dog (run backwards) and reward the pup for again running to you, you have now shown that the reward does not end with the first treat. The dog will play closer attention to you even after the first reward.

So, if you can properly engage your dog, you are effectively getting his/her attention or focus which in turn gets them to listen reliably to you. If you want that well-trained or well-mannered dog you need to invest the time and energy into engaging with your dog in a meaningful way.

Michael Ellis
Training Engagement before Obedience
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NPw60HX4DI4
Why We Play with Dogs
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c-wpF4xpSKI

Separation Anxiety

Sun, 09 Feb 2025 22:47:30 GMT

Dog separation anxiety

Dog separation anxiety is a common behavioral issue that affects many dogs when they are left alone or are separated from their owners. This anxiety can manifest in various forms of distress and destructive behaviors, which can be troublesome for both the dog and its owner. Understanding the underlying causes, recognizing the symptoms, and implementing effective solutions are essential to managing and alleviating separation anxiety in dogs.

Dogs are creatures of habit, and any significant change in their daily routine can trigger anxiety. This could include changes in the owner's work schedule, moving to a new home, or a sudden alteration in the household dynamics, such as the arrival of a new family member or pet. Dogs that have experienced abandonment, abuse, or multiple re-homing situations are more likely to develop separation anxiety. The fear of being left alone again can cause significant stress and anxiety.

Dogs that have not been properly trained to cope with being alone may struggle with separation anxiety. Early socialization and gradual acclimatization to periods of solitude are crucial in preventing anxiety from developing. One of the most common signs of separation anxiety is destructive behavior, such as chewing on furniture, scratching doors, or tearing up household items. This behavior is often a result of the dog's attempt to escape or alleviate its anxiety.

Dogs with separation anxiety may bark or howl excessively when left alone. This vocalization is a form of distress signaling and can be a significant indicator of anxiety. Despite being house-trained, dogs with separation anxiety may urinate or defecate indoors when left alone. This behavior is often linked to the stress and panic they experience in their owner's absence. Some dogs may try to escape from their confinement areas, such as crates or rooms, causing damage to doors, windows, or even injuring themselves in the process.

Physical symptoms of anxiety, such as excessive drooling, panting, or shaking, can also be observed in dogs with separation anxiety. Gradual desensitization involves slowly acclimating the dog to being alone by starting with brief periods of separation and gradually increasing the duration over time. This helps the dog build confidence and reduce anxiety. Providing a safe and comfortable space for the dog, such as a crate or a designated room, can help reduce anxiety. This space should be equipped with the dog's favorite toys, bedding, and items that carry the owner's scent.

Implementing positive reinforcement training techniques can help modify the dog's behavior. Rewarding calm behavior and gradually exposing the dog to being alone can help reduce anxiety. Ideally, it is best to start desensitizing dogs while they are still puppies or for the rescued pup, right from the first day they arrive at their new forever home.

Begin by identifying what should be a safe space for your dog. The crate is recommended as it is practical because it can be taken with you on vacation or brought to another person’s home that is intending to watch out for the pup.

Do not force your dog into the crate as it is to become a safe space. Reducing or eliminating separation anxiety will only happen through positive association with their safe space.

Begin by tossing treats into the crate so the dog may find them and be rewarded for entering the crate. Once the dog is entering on its own to look for treats, place a treat in the crate and close the door. Position yourself comfortably next to the crate. The dog will begin to get excited, whining and scratching to get out.

It is in this phase that you, the owner must remain strong. Whether out of sympathy for the pup or because the noise is so annoying, you will be inclined to let the dog out. Do not! You will be rewarding the dog for its bad behavior.

Once your dog has calmed down, this may take several minutes or even longer, open the door, let your dog out and reward with treats and love. Repeat the above sequence many times a day. When your dog begins to relax right away when the door is closed, then you need to begin to put distance between you and the crate. When you are able, create that distance, then you start leaving the room, first for short periods of time and then increasing longer. Once the dog is used to you being away longer and out of sight in the home, then you start going outdoors. Again, start short then gradually increase the duration of the separation.

When leaving home, do not give your dog ques that you are leaving for a longer period. Do you say “Goodbye” to your pup before heading to work? Do you say “Goodbye” to your dog when you go to the mailbox? Treat your dog the same way no matter what you are leaving the home for.

Ensuring that the dog receives adequate mental and physical stimulation can help alleviate anxiety. Regular exercise, interactive toys, and puzzle feeders can keep the dog engaged and reduce stress levels.

In severe cases of separation anxiety, seeking help from a professional dog trainer or a veterinarian may be necessary. They can provide specialized training programs or recommend medication to manage the anxiety.

Dog separation anxiety is a challenging issue that requires patience, understanding, and consistent effort from the owner. By identifying the causes, recognizing the symptoms, and implementing effective solutions, owners can help their dogs overcome separation anxiety and lead happier, stress-free lives. The key to success lies in a combination of gradual desensitization, creating a safe environment, providing mental and physical stimulation, and seeking professional help when needed. With dedication and empathy, dog owners can significantly improve their pets' well-being and strengthen their bond.

Videos with additional information / Technicks

Cesar Millan

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BmVSLqCh-RI

Beckman

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hAoDtfpBwVs

Steve Mann
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Vps9Es0T_5E

The posting of these links does not necessarily mean that TCC endorses any of the other training methods presented by those authors!

References
•    American Kennel Club. (2021). Separation Anxiety in Dogs. Retrieved from [URL]
•    PetMD. (2020). How to Help a Dog with Separation Anxiety. Retrieved from [URL]
•    ASPCA. (2019). Dog Behavior: Separation Anxiety. Retrieved from [URL]

Puppy Food Possessiveness

Wed, 29 Jan 2025 13:12:33 GMT

Puppies and Food Possessiveness

One of the most annoying and often scary behaviors a dog can exhibit is Food Possessiveness towards people.
In this blog we are going to address the topic of food possessiveness in puppies.

What is a puppy?

You could talk to 20 different people and get 20 different answers. In the world of training, the vast majority of trainers will tell you that a puppy (that is to be trained) is between the ages of 6 and 20 weeks.

What are the defining characteristics of a puppy that is food possessive?

Growling / flashing of teeth, stiffening of the body when you are near the food bowl when the dog is eating
Growling / flashing of teeth, stiffening of the body when your hand approaches the food bowl while the dog is eating.
Growling / flashing of teeth, stiffening of the body when you are petting the dog while it is eating

Why does a puppy (and dogs) show this bad behavior?

Simply put, they do not want their food to be taken away.

How to address this behavior in a puppy (or a dog)?

Show and ingrain in the puppy that we do NOT intend to take their food away!

The best way to address this behavior is when the dog is a puppy! If you Google the topic or go on YouTube, you will find a multitude of information on the subject. One thing that I have noticed is that a lot of those people providing the information seem to be stuck on their ‘method’. What I would like to emphasize is that nearly all the methods that I have seen are good! The best methods that I would recommend are listed below.

Things you should do (for puppies!):

Touching / petting the puppy while it is eating, provoking the bad behavior.

If the bad behavior is exhibited, continue petting until it seems less then stop
If there is no bad behavior, stop petting sooner

Offer higher rewards (to draw the puppy away from its food)

You must offer something to the puppy that is of higher food value than what they have in their bowl!

If the pup is being fed kibble then offer a jerky
If the pup is being fed wet food then offer a food scrap (piece of chicken or steak – can be raw if you know the pup likes it)
With your hand close to bowl, call their name, entice them and give the treat
When the pup is used to this, call them off the bowl a few feet before giving the treat, or
Entice them away from the bowl, while giving the treat, pick up the bowl. Place the bowl back down in front of the pup after a short moment

Feed the puppy by hand

With the food bowl on the ground, drop the kibble bit by bit into the bowl. The pup sees the food is coming from you!

Train with the food

This is a method often used by dog trainers, the advantages

The puppy is always hungry and driven to work for the food
The puppy learns that the food comes from the human
The puppy does not learn to guard a food bowl in the first place

Things you should NOT do:

Do not ‘correct’ your puppy

You want to have the most loyal and playful dog!
Corrections at this age will dampen your pups’ feelings towards you.

Unless using the training or feed by hand method (breakfast is used as the reward during training), do not constantly intervene in your pups feeding time. It may annoy the pup and possibly have the opposite results!

For more detailed information, the following links have been listed:

1. How to Stop Puppy Resource Guarding

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_oyft03x6cU

2. How to Deal With FOOD AGGRESSIVE PUPPIES! | Shield K9 Clips

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9VM0N_4jx9M

The posting of these links does not necessarily mean that TCC endorses any of the other training methods presented by those authors!

Establishing Leadership in Dog Language

Wed, 24 Apr 2024 13:20:00 GMT

What constitutes a ‘well mannered’ dog? A good definition might be of a dog that is well behaved at home. That would be a dog not begging at the dinner table or in the kitchen, not jumping on people, not blasting out the front door, the minor infractions. It would also include a dog that doesn’t nip when it doesn’t get its way. A dog that isn’t guarding its food bowl or couch, worse yet, the bed. Possibly the worst, a dog biting a household member (the dog is using negative re-enforcement on the human by biting). This last behavior creates an atmosphere of fear from everyone with which the dog feeds off of causing him to become even more reactive. Moreover, this behavior is something nobody will tolerate and visitors will avoid coming over out of fear of being bit.

We, as dog owners, make a lot of mistakes with our pups when we are at home. The biggest mistake, believing that our dogs are kids or humans and that just by talking to our furry friend, we can convince them of their wrong doings. Dogs do not understand our words. They do understand our tone of voice, our emotions and how we react to their behaviors very well though. We have a blog which goes into detail on how your voice affects your dog and how to use it and will not be covered here.

What I would like to go into detail about is how we can show our dogs that we are the homeowner, that is to say the dog is not, and therefore the pup is not the decision maker at home. When a dog understands this message, a lot of the unwanted behaviors can be minimized or eliminated… without any formal basic obedience training. Extreme behaviors, once started by the dog, are very difficult to remove as the dog realizes the effect it has on those around them. Establishing boundaries will do little without using negative reinforcement.

Some of you are certainly asking “why” would we want to show our dog leadership? It is simple, if we do not then more often than not, our dog(s) will show us leadership. What? Remember those few bad traits I had mentioned above? Nipping for example? This would include biting… How does a dog show another dog not to come near its bowl when it is eating (sometimes even when there is no food in the bowl)? It will growl and nip in the mild cases of possession. It may attack and bite in severe cases. Regardless of whether this behavior is due to fear or dominance, this act is one of ownership.

Remember back to the time when you were in high school. There was certainly a day or two in there where you had a bad experience. One where another student did not agree with you and no amount of arguing or repeating of facts could convince this person of your opinion. The reaction from your antagonist, to take a step closer and get into your face. The tone of voice was deeper and menacing. The words were blatantly abusive and intimidating. What was your reaction? For most people, this experience would reflect that time they encountered the “Bully”. Those encounters resulted more often than not in the affected person backing away, restoring that “bubble” of safe space between the two persons. Who won this argument? You, standing obviously on the correct side of the debate or that bully who just shut you up? Not sure? One thing is for sure, a boundary was set for you. There is no debating with this person and therefore no winning. You got ‘owned’ (dominance established).

Now, did you ever notice if there was a person or persons that the bully did not pester? I promise you, there were a few. These persons did not back down to the intimidation (whether or not by fighting) and established a new set of boundaries. That isn’t to say that those persons won the debate but they earned respect.

Dogs have a very similar ‘bubble’ that people have. Get too close to the timid dog that you do not know, and it hides or moves away, re-establishing its bubble. Get too close to the dominant dog and it may react harshly to your intrusion, driving you out of its bubble.

So, how do we show a dog leadership without actually training with it?

There are several big things that we can do that dogs understand.

Here is a list of actions that can be taken;

Done properly, all these actions will show your pup that you own the home.

Eating before your dog. The dominant dog, especially where prized foods are concerned, will claim its food and eat first and not allow others in a close proximity. Not only is this behavior found in nature but has also been observed in domestic dogs (13 Year study - Ref. Genetics and the Social Behavior of the dog).

Claiming Space. Dominant dogs will claim ‘space’ at home. Those areas are typically the couch and the bed but isn’t restricted to those two. These areas are inside its bubble. The kitchen is often seen by dogs as their source of food and difficult dogs will claim the area near the source. That might be a cabinet, the fridge or the person cooking. The doorway to the kitchen may even be blocked by a dominant pup. This trait of claiming space is found in most working dogs with few exceptions. Not only has this been verified scientifically but has been our experience working with extremely difficult dogs.

By making your dog work (Sit, Down, Touch, Shake, Play Dead, etc) before getting onto the couch (bed), he / she is earning the privilege to get up. If no basic obedience is present, the pup should at the very least be invited to join on the couch. By kicking them off (pushing them off), you are effectively claiming your space (re-establishing your bubble) and asserting your dominance.

Impulse Control. Specifically door manners are referenced here. Most dogs want to blast out the door to see what might be chased, whether that be a squirrel, bird, dog or person. By checking this behavior at the door, you are effectively placing yourself in the position as the decision maker about whether or not something is to be chased.

Toys or high value objects are often a point of contention with dogs. Removing these objects and only allowing access when you as the owner decide puts you in command. When allowing access, the pup should work for the toy! Sit, Down, Shake or the like. Not only are we taking charge but we are also increasing the dogs’ desire to work.

Whether you are bringing a puppy or a rescue into your home, it is very important to set those boundaries immediately.

Tip: Do NOT love on your pup for no reason! Make them earn the love. By loving on a pup (dog) too much and for the wrong reasons, you can inadvertently turn an otherwise good dog into one that will need a lot of training to re-establish good behavior.

The Prong Collar – Why it Works

Wed, 27 Mar 2024 00:45:00 GMT

Think back to those days when you really enjoyed watching a good horror film. I mean that nasty movie that had you slumping in your seat, so engrossed in the moment that the movie was, at that moment, your whole world. The protagonist is found in a no-win situation, an imminent, bloody and beyond painful death is nearly upon him… then your partner pokes you in the ribs and blares a blood curdling “Buooohhhh Haaa Ha!” into your ear.

You are ripped out of the fantasy world your mind was engulfed in and immediately faced with reality again.

Or maybe, you are driving down the highway? You have been on the road for a good hour and your thoughts had been wandering back to the problems at home or work. All of the questions about what happened?

How could I have let things get this way? What can I do to change what is coming? Where do I begin with making things right? The stress is almost overwhelming, and your thoughts have you on auto-pilot. The dashed center line is just a blur, the bridges you pass blend in with the clouds, the cars you had been passing look like transparent ghosts, whisps of fog, flowing into your barely perceived mirror.

To your horror, your whole front windshield is suddenly filled with the flashing red and blues light of a shark lying patiently for its next prey. All of the previous weeks of bad decisions and ugly situations are whisked from your thoughts as though they were never there. Your concentration now is completely on the big question… Are those lights for me. Your mind is now wholey in the moment.

In both scenarios, the persons find themselves fixated on something so intensely that all else around them has faded into the background and is barely registered. Both are literally shocked back into the real world. The “shock”, is not painful… Well, physically it is not painful. The second scenario might present a shock to the pocketbook. The point is, both persons were abruptly brought back to the real world and “into the moment”.

Most people who own dogs want a well-trained dog or at the very least a well-mannered dog. You can have neither unless you have a dog that is focused on you and understands what you expect of them.

Focus is very important when expecting a dog to not become reactive to people or dogs. Just as important is that a dog must understand that it is not their place to become reactive to their surroundings unless Mom or Dad allows it.

What does it mean to become “reactive”? The definition from a dictionary.

When dogs ‘react’ they are putting themselves into what we call a “heightened” state of mind. Once in this state, it is very difficult to get them out of it.

Before getting into what we, as dog owners, need to do with a reactive pup, let’s take a look at how dogs react in real life when dealing with each other.

Momma dog has a litter of pups that are about 3 weeks old. Their eyes are just opening and a whole new world is being presented to them. Wow! The wonder of it all! The sounds that they have been hearing, the smells that have been bombarding them are all taking on shape. The world is now a magnet that is pulling them out of their den to discover the meaning of this new information. Momma is napping, trying to recover some of her strength but wakes often with the feeling of loss. One of her pups is once again on an adventure and roaming out into the big wide world. She rises, leaves the den to find the young pup just beyond the warm blankets, nose in the air, oblivious to moms’ approach. She reaches down, engulfs his head in her mouth, then deftly grabs a large swath of skin at his neck, her teeth firmly planted so as not to lose the precious boy to gravity. Dangling from her mouth, she carries him back to the den, all the while thinking “Oh, no you don’t”.

Momma dog’s litter is now several weeks older. The pups are getting to their rambunctious age, jumping, chasing and rough and tumbling with one another… That would include trying to get momma in on the fun. Momma is tired and drained though and would rather have a break from all the fun. One pup in particular is tenacious and continuously pounces on momma’s back to the grab at her ears and lips with his needle sharp teeth. It doesn’t take long for momma to become, well, bitchy? She begins to raise her lips in protest, a bit of her eye whites flashing with her rising mood temperature. A clear warning to the little guy that wants to instigate a good chase. He lunges again to be confronted with not only the earlier warnings but also with a good grump and snap of the teeth. Boy is this fun, the little guy is thinking to himself, pitching out his first attempts at a bark. Not catching the more than obvious hint, he springs at her head again. This time his antics are answered with a resounding growl, a solid nip at his neck and momma, like a flash of lightening poised above him in the most menacing of manners. The little guy is now on his back looking up at ferocious display of teeth and piddled onto his belly where the wetness rolls to the ground for all others to smell. The playful behavior has left him completely to be replaced by wonderment at momma’s sudden setting of boundaries.

The pups, now about 15 weeks of age, are out playing. They largely avoid momma because she can be so obnoxious to them when they are having fun. The pen they are in is large enough for all to move around comfortably and magically things appear that are so fun to push around and attack and chew on. The problem? All of the pups want to do the same with these things. It is a free-for-all but only the strongest seem to have any time with these, toys. Inevitably little fights break out where one pup will chase the other, tossing the annoying one to the ground where he instinctively hovers over the weaker with teeth on his opponents’ neck. The scuffle started out as “My trophy”, “My Ball”, “My Bone” but in the heat of the moment has turned into, “I bested you!”, “I am the boss!”, the bone now forgotten with two other pups challenging each other for possession.

What to take from these scenarios? These pups, to include momma dog, are not out to hurt each other. So what is the point? They use their teeth to pass on information to the other dogs in the family. These puppies are confronted with this type of transfer of information since a very young age.

Okay, what to do with the reactive dog? Training. Pure and simple. We train the dogs that focusing on us, the parents, is rewarding. The dogs need to know that being physically located right next to us is the best place in the world. They need to understand that when adverse situations do occur, we are in control. The dog does not need to be scared or feel challenged by what might be taking place in front of them. If the situation does reach a point where the dog thinks a reaction is necessary, the pup needs to know that the leader (mom or dad) will ‘transfer’ information to it about its upcoming annoying attitude and that it will be rewarded for behaving well instead.

When trained properly, a dog does very well understand the difference between what we have taught to be ‘right’ and what is ‘wrong’.

How to best facilitate this kind of training? Focus is fairly easy, we just need to appeal to the dogs sense of fun, rewarding the dog for keeping its attention on us when we require it. This is only half the answer though. When stress enters any given situation, even the greatest rewards that a dog might want won’t necessarily get them to look at you. This is where ‘negative’ reinforcement comes into play. When the pup understands that its action(s) will be reacted to negatively but if focus is re-established it will be rewarded.

The way to avoid our dogs becoming reactive is to get their focus on us BEFORE they become reactive to a situation. Again, once in that heightened state of mind, it is very difficult to get them out of it without removing them from the situation.

When effectively and efficiently training anyone or any animal, we need to use those tools that best promote that training. When training pilots, we use a simulator, right? When working with dogs, ‘laying teeth on’ is something that they understand very well. This is where the Prong Collar comes in.

First and foremost, the Prong collar is a training tool! Just as with any other tool, used properly, this tool can be a huge asset in the training of a dog. Mis-used, it may cause a dog to become very anxious resulting in more unwanted issues.

There are a lot of trainers out there looking to ban this tool, claiming that it is intentionally hurting the dogs. Once again, used properly, this tool is not designed to hurt the dog. One would have to equate this to operating a bulldozer. Let someone who is not qualified jump into the driver’s seat, the likelihood that the person is to cause more damage than good is greater than great. Once that person has trained and earned his certification on that piece of equipment, one might expect hugely positive results from his / her time in the driver’s seat.

Yes, the prong collar looks brutal, it looks medieval. Yes, the prong collar is designed to imitate teeth but without the devastating effect that real teeth can have.

How can this work? Imagine, your pup is barking out the window, he is in a heightened state of mind. Calling his name doesn’t work because the stimulus outside outweighs the reward he might get from you. “Laying Teeth On”, is just like poking you in the ribs with that scary movie or turning on those Red and Blue lights when you are on the highway. Properly applied, the dog will break its attention from the distraction at hand to look to see who is ‘biting’.

“If you can get your dog to look at you, you can get him to listen.”

The magic in this collar is to never have pressure on it unless required to get your pup’s focus. The amount of ‘force’ one uses depends on the heightened state your dog is in.

A good analogy; imagine you are at a concert with your partner. You pay at the front gate and walk in. There is no music playing and very few people around. You are thirsty and tap your partner on the shoulder to say “Lets go get something to drink.” The message is easily understood. Get that music playing at one hundred twenty decibels and fifty or sixty people pushing around you and that tap won’t work. You will have to smack your partner on the shoulder and yell, “Lets go get something to drink!”. Your partner may not understand what you are yelling about but you have his attention.

The absolute same is true for the prong collar and the state of mind your pup is in. You are using just enough force to overcome the heightened state of mind and get focus back. Once focus is achieved, the dog is asked to sit where he is then rewarded with treats and love.

Notes:

Creating the Best Worst Dog

Thu, 21 Mar 2024 18:53:00 GMT

There is no doubt, when ‘training dogs’, that seventy percent of the training is for the human owner. Time and again we (the trainers) are confronted with many similar issues in the dog – person relationships that adversely affect the dogs behavior. This blog is going to list a few of those mistakes.

It’s a quaint house, small but with a large porch painted all in white. It is nestled between a row full of similar homes on a busy side road. The wide steps to the porch rise up to give view to the front door with a large bay window next to it. Next to the door, a sign reading “Beware of Dog” is fully on display.

This is Princess’s new home. Princess is a beautiful example of a Chihuahua mix and has found herself a very loving home. She is well fed, getting her meals twice daily and plenty of treats in between. Mom has her doggy bed in the living room and the bedroom where she can nap or sleep at her leisure. Princess’s assortment of toys that are strewn across every floor of the home would make the most wealthy of pups stop and take note. And then there is Mom. She is the greatest woman, always soft spoken, always giving and ever ready to tend to her needs. Dad is, well, he is like the captain of a ship. If Princess barks or scratches at the carpet or puts her head on the table at dinner time, from the chair of course, Dad barks out orders at her.

Princess’s life didn’t begin this easy. At her first forever home, mom and dad were initially very happy and there was lots of love and play and food! Slowly, she noticed that things were changing. Mom and Dad were ever quieter and they were gone more and more. The days became dismal and were running into each other. Feeding wasn’t coming on time like it had and mom and dad would now, on occasion, get loud and grumpy with each other. Sometimes, Princess would jump into moms’ lap and she could feel she was sad, large wet tears dropping onto her nose and head. Princess could feel the pain and lay quiet in moms’ lap. Other times, princess would jump up into moms’ lap and it would be rewarded with a loud scream from mom accompanied by a spank on the butt. There were days Princess would be left alone at home and she would have to go pee and poop so bad but couldn’t get outside. It hurt so much that there was nothing for it, she would have to run for the corner of the rug. The feeling of the soft material between her toes felt most like outside on the grass and she would relieve herself. Dad would come home first and she knew to hide. The smell of her accident was unmistakable and she knew what was coming. The bellowing rage from dad’s heated face, the slamming of furniture and kicking that she would have to endure to then be thrown out the back door. One day mom came home to witness Princess being punished and there was a big fight. She couldn’t understand the sounds but it led to dad storming from the home. A few days had passed, there were no more fights but mom was even more sad until one day she saw mom packing up her blankets and toys and food. She was crying uncontrollably when she had clipped the leash to Princess’s collar and drove her to this place where there were lots of dogs, all of them screaming at the tops of their lungs. Mom left her there and never came back.

When Princess met her second Mom and Dad, it was joy at first sight from them. Princess was cautious but felt optimistic. With lowered head and slightly wagging tail she greeted them. Within minutes Princess was smiling and after much to do with Mom and the shelter personnel, she found herself in a car leaving that place she never wants to see again.

The new home was tidy and cozy, and everything was given to her that she ever wanted. Princess soon found herself jumping up onto the couch barking with joy at Mom and Dad. When they sat with her, she would jump up on the backrest and play king of the hill. This was her castle and Mom and Dad would play catch me. So MUCH fun! When visitors would come calling, it was Princess’ prerogative to race to her tower next to the door and show that incoming person just how well she can defend her castle from intruders.

The FOOD! It was sooo gooood. Princess would just be beside herself when breakfast and dinner were served. Mom would put it on the floor and her nose would be right in it. Sometimes Mom would try to take her bowl before she was done and Princess would get angry, “I am not done,” she would let Mom know with crisp barks. “you can have it when I have cleaned it”. She could hear Mom saying in a soft voice, “Okay, I know you are hungry. I will wait.” There are also those snacks that Mom leaves on the table or kitchen counter. Dad gets angry when Mom leaves those treats for her, so Princess is always quick to grab the treats and get back on the floor.

Princess was let outside often during the day. It was a bit scary though with the neighbor dogs barking and the loud mechanical noises and sound of rushing air coming from the busy road at the front of the home. Princess would hurry to do her number then rush back into the house where she would find Mom and jump into her ever welcoming arms. Sometimes Princess wasn’t in the mood to face the obnoxious world outside the walls of the home that now belonged to her. She would slip away and find the corner of the carpet to relieve herself to then rush away and hide. Mom would find her mess and most times without a word clean it up. If anything was said it was mostly “Naughty Girl!” in a voice tinged with high note on the ‘girl’. Princess didn’t know what those words meant but soon learned that she did not need to be scared of being kicked.

The big brown van with the huge white lettering “UPS” comes to a halt in front of the neighbor’s home with the squeal of well used brakes on the verge of needing replacement. Princess’s ears would prick up at the noise, “Boy! My favorite metal box on wheels is coming! Where is Mom?”. Princess races around the small home looking for Mom and hears her downstairs. Bark! Bark! “That truck is here again!“ And back to the window she would run. Screaming at the top her little lungs, Princess would ramble on, “My House! My House! Don’t come up those stairs! My house! I don’t know you! My House!”, as the man would approach the front door and bend over to put something on the porch. Princess wasn’t having any more of it, and in a voice as nasty as she could make she would shriek, “MY HOOOUUUSE! Get away from here!” It was usually at this time that Mom would show up to try and soothe her angst. She would pick her up and with sweet sounding words in her ear, talk until Princess would calm. Now Princess was really beginning to think and voiced her opinion for all to hear, “THIS IS MY MOM AND MY HOME, YOU ARE NOT COMING IN HERE TO HURT US!!!” At this point, Mom would turn and head towards the kitchen. Princess could see the man leaving the front door from over Mom’s shoulder. She would punch out a couple more very vocal lines that were now more half hearted and grumpy than scared, “Don’t come back here! I said this is my house…” Grrrrr. This scenario is repeated almost daily, sometimes several times a day.

On those days where Dad was home and the mailman would visit, Princess would forget that Dad is not so forgiving. When she would yell at the mailman, Dad would add to her chorus with his booming howl. At first Princess took this as a good reason to raise her own voice and did so willingly. Only, he would then call her name and shake a bag of her favorite treats. Of course this was an excellent reason to run to Dad until she found that he would grab her by her collar and get a good spanking. Princess didn’t understand why she was getting spanked? These were her treats or not?

Princess, had in her eyes, such a great life. So good that no matter who came to her home, she would let them know that Mom is her mom and only her mom. She was very decisive in letting these people too close, at times having to snap at their hands to make sure they knew they were out of bounds. “Nobody is taking my Mom from me.” She would grumble under her breath, just loud enough for the trespasser to hear and understand how serious she is.

There is a lot to take away from this story. Although Princess thinks she has ‘The Life’, she doesn’t understand how hard her decision making is impacting her mom. Nor how she might enjoy much more love from everyone else coming into the home if she were to understand that she needs to follow Mom’s lead. Only through training with Mom will Princess comprehend her position in the home and truly be able to relax. A happy life for a dog must include boundaries.

What is the story trying to tell you?

The Power of your Voice

Mon, 18 Mar 2024 17:30:00 GMT

“Use the Force Luke”, one of the most popular recited lines from the Mega hit Star Wars series.

With the mere flick wave of a hand, Obi Won Kenobi is able to influence the decisions of the feeble minds of others.

The ‘Voice’ in the movie Dune, when adequately trained and using words of ‘power’ the protagonists were able to use sound as a powerful weapon both for destruction and to influence the minds of others.

In both cases, when correctly using one’s voice, one can manipulate others to do ones will.

When training with dogs, it is very similar.

Dogs do not understand words (there might be those that will dispute this statement but for the vast majority of our four-legged friends, this statement is true), they do, however, understand our emotions, our actions and our tones of voice. Dogs are quite literally empaths.

If you have taken the time to bond with your dog…

Have you ever noticed that when you are grieving, your pup will come and cuddle with you? Have you ever noticed that when you are very excited that your pup is jumping with joy with you? Have you ever noticed that when you are scared, your dog is also on edge?

When you are walking your reactive dog (a dog that barks and pulls whenever it might see a person or dog that it wants to greet) have you ever reflected on how you react? Do you get stiff out of anticipation of how your dog is going to react? Do you automatically pull up on the leash putting tension on your dogs’ collar… even when your pup has not yet seen the oncoming distraction? Subconsciously you are tipping your dog off to your feelings about the situation you are about to be confronted with.

The way you talk to your dog also has a big impact on how it reacts. When you are sad and explaining your heartbreak to your pup, have you noticed that those puppy eyes are reflecting your feelings? When you are overjoyed, your voice gets higher and the giggles and laughter sends your dog into the most dramatic of zoomies? When you are mad as heck because of the issues at work and your grumpy replies has your pup staying at a distance, maybe even cowering when you make eye contact with them?

There is so much power in the use of your voice, specifically the tone of your voice, when you have been properly trained.

Your emotions, when training with your dog, need to be kept under control, especially the negative ones. The answer to this problem, don’t train with your pup if you are in a bad mood.

Much the same as with learning how to use your voice when training, one must also learn to control how they handle the leash when working with dogs. This topic will be covered in a different blog.

What do dogs fundamentally understand about sounds? It is simple, the high tones (for the normal dog) are a good thing. When you speak in a high tone of voice, which we all do when happy, your pup picks up on it and reacts accordingly. When you speak in a low or deep tone of voice, which most of us do when we are grumpy (there are some screamers out there), the pups also pick up on it and act accordingly.

Have you taken the time to watch dogs interact with each other? When greeting, the ‘tone’ sets the music for the initial interaction. If the pups are sociable, you will hear happy whines accompanied by play bows and the fun begins! If one of the pups is not sociable, you will hear low guttural grumps accompanied by a stiff body and possibly the lifting of a lip. A clear indication to the other pup that play is out of the question.

One can equate the high tone of voice to a “Yes” for the dog and the deep tone of voice as a “No”. Dogs (and people for that matter) learn best when being taught in a binary language, “Yes” for when things are done right, and a “No” for those times when things are not done right.

Make no mistake, the most effective and efficient way to train a dog (or person) is when being able to say Yes and No to them at the right moment. Again, the Yes and the No must be absolutely clear to the dog. Pups do not work well in grey areas.

The biggest mistake(s) that we make as dog owners is not being clear with our dogs when we want to teach them right from wrong. Where we make our biggest mistake, especially those first-time dog owners, is to treat or act as if our dogs are kids and think that they understand what we are trying to tell them. First of all, dogs DO NOT understand sentences. Regardless of whether the dog is doing something right or wrong, if we respond to them in a monotonous voice in a sentence, they will not know if we are rewarding them or chastising them. The next thing, dogs live in the moment. If you are not giving your pup a concise “Yes” or “No” for the action they just did, literally within the first few seconds, they will not know why you are giving a “Yes” or a “No” to them.

What does a “Yes” look like for a dog?

Let’s first clarify what a “Yes” or “No” is not. These two conditions are NOT commands. When giving commands to our dogs, they should be given as uniform as possible to our pups so as never to be misunderstood. Once again, this is a topic for another blog.

The “Yes” condition; There are a few distinguishable ways to deliver a good ‘Yes’ to our dogs.

Some might suggest the ‘clicker’ as one of the best ways to convey a ‘yes’ to one’s pup. It is consistent, the tone of the click never changing and therefore a solid message. The clicker, as with any other method of conveying a positive to a pup, must be trained. When the pup does an action that is considered ‘right’, a click is given followed by a reward, most often a treat. The method is very effective. The issue that I have with the clicker, in the real world, we may not have a clicker with us when needed, what then? Or, what if the dog that we just trained is being handled by someone that is not familiar with the use of the clicker? When our pup just did something exceedingly well, where is the joy we need to convey to our pup, the clicker ALWAYS gives the same sound? That joy is an element of bonding the dogs need. Last but not least, where is the ‘marker’ (the click) for those actions we do not want to see from our dog?

I have found that the best method for training the ‘Yes’ (commonly called a Marker Word) to our dogs is with our voice. For the pups to understand what a Yes is, we have to teach it to them. Remember, dogs live in the moment! To teach the “Yes”, it must come immediately following the desired action. You give the pup the Sit command and as soon as that butt hits the ground, a “Yes” is verbalized. This marker word MUST be given in a higher pitched tone than you would use in normal conversation. In order for the dog to understand the “Yes” to mean ‘good’, it MUST be followed by a reward within seconds of giving the marker word. With enough repetition, the dogs will absolutely understand they did correctly what was requested of them.

A word of caution, do not give the reward simultaneously with the marker word. Experience has shown that when this is the case, the dogs fail to understand the significance of the marker word.

Please note;

Once a dog has been taught the meaning of the verbal “Yes” condition, the need for treats or rewards will no longer be continuously necessary as the dog will know that it has pleased its owner with the last action. The uttering of the marker word IS the reward.

The “No” marker word works very similarly to the “Yes”. The difference? The “No” is given in a low, deep and grumpy voice followed by a correction. Once again, the marker word must be given immediately with the undesired behavior and the correction should follow within a couple of seconds of the marker word.

For those more in line with positive only training, the negative reinforcement (correction) might just be to remove the dog from the situation, whether that removal is merely moving the dog out of the situation by several feet or placing them in a different room. The correction might also be a pop of the leash or poke in the ribs, enough to break the pup out of its heightened state of mind. A proper correction should always be followed by positive reinforcement for something done right! An example; you are walking with your dog downtown and a friend approaches. A hand is extended to you in greeting as you stop. Your pup gives a low growl and pulls towards the approaching person, a definite bad behavior. You respond with an “Ah-ah” (marker word) and pop the leash. You are looking down at your dog and the pup responds by sitting next to you to then look up and make eye contact, a definitely desired behavior. You give your pup a ‘Good Boy’ followed by a few slow strokes along his cheek and neck.

EVERY DOG IS DIFFERENT!

When formulating the “Yes” and “No” conditions for a dog, the trainer must know the character of the dog. If the dog is timid or scared, that excited, much to do “Yes” may overwhelm the pup. For the dominant dog, that same joyful “Yes” may be an invitation to rough and tumble. Both reactions of the dogs would be counterproductive in the teaching of manners.

The same goes for the “No” condition. A too vigorous pop of the leash may cause a timid dog to ‘shut down’ and not follow any more directions. Whereby a subtle pop of the leash for a dominant dog would be merely a love tap and go completely unnoticed.

When you have been trained properly to implement the right tone of voice (guys, you have to master a girly voice when giving the “Yes”, and girls, you will need to dig deep to get the grumpy unmistakable and required “No” out) and give those marker words with perfect timing, you will find that training has just been simplified another notch and your bond with your pup has deepened.

THERE IS POWER IN YOUR VOICE!

Rewarding

Mon, 04 Mar 2024 02:32:00 GMT

You Can’t Train a Dog Without Mastering the Art of Rewarding

Without rewards, there is no training of a happy dog, it is pure and simple. Even the most difficult of dogs, when rewarded with the right “treat” at the right time for the right behavior can be made happier.

One must first understand that although all dogs have similarities, sometimes hugely similar, they are in fact distinct from one another, even within breeds or even litters. Knowing this will greatly influence how you reward your dog, especially the more difficult pups.

Everyone wants to have a happy dog, a well-mannered dog, a dog you can take with you anywhere you go and be proud. How can we define a Happy Dog? Let’s be a bit more specific, how can we define a happy dog in a good home? Simply put, a happy dog is one that is living as close as possible to a stress free life. Some stress is a good thing and is required as stress defines boundaries. Knowing those boundaries, believe it or not, helps relieve the dog from what might be more stressful situations. Properly trained, stress will also elevate the value of the reward given for enduring the stress.

To clarify, not every dog is going to be happy in some of the situations that we would like them to be! Just like humans, some dogs don’t want to be in the midst of a crowded bus station while others might thrive on the attention they would get. Some dogs are going to detest going into a lake for a swim while others will be Swan diving into those beckoning waves. “Happy” is determined by the character of the dog, not by us humans.

One might equate stress in the real world of a dog to the boy who wants so badly that Lamborghini looking mountain bike with full suspension, disc brakes and clip pedals but to get it he must get good grades. The report card comes home with mostly A’s and nothing lower than a B, the bike is his. The bike, the reward, is his motivation to achieve better grades. Where is the stress? The boy knows he won’t get the bike if he is outside playing with his friends rather than at the kitchen table studying. He knows that when there is an issue with a topic, rather than just ignoring it, he will have to ask for help. With a pup it is no different. The pup wants that tasty treat presented to him at the tip of his nose so badly. He could be pawing at the hand, jumping on the owner, turning circles in expectation or even nipping to get his way. That bit of heaven doesn’t make it to his mouth till that butt hits the ground though and is absolutely frustrating till the pup, through repetition, figures out it needs to work (Sit) for that treat. Work IS stress.

In layman terms, the reward is worth so much more when you have to invest for it.

Both scenarios could be presented in as many ways as there are people or dogs on earth. These two examples were held at a simplistic level to illustrate how a reward can motivate a boy or a dog and how stress is needed to ‘learn’.

There are three primary types of rewards that we can offer our dogs. Treats, Love and Play. There are other motivators but for training purposes, we will stick to the three above mentioned. For most dogs, playing is the highest reward that you can give. Love is a reward that all dogs will appreciate and treats, though appreciated by most dogs, are the least value but very important in every aspect of training.

Dogs learn most efficiently when using a so called “Binary language” which consists of “Yes and No”. Take either the “Yes” or the “No” out of the training and a dog will have a VERY difficult time understanding what is being asked of it. The YES portion of the training is very well defined and understood by most if not all trainers, the Treats, Love and Play aspect. The NO aspect of training with dogs has been and still is up for debate. One thing is clear, if the “NO” portion of the training is ambiguous for the dog, it will take much longer to comprehend what is being taught, if it makes a connection at all. “Much Longer”, for the average dog owner, at the very least, means substantially more money. Worst case, more money and zero results. We will cover the “NO” portion of the training in a different blog.

Treats… there are different levels of treats. Low value, medium value and High value. For every dog, these three categories will have different definitions, in particular the High value treat. For the average dog though, the Low value treat would be the kibble they get every day as a meal or milk bones. The medium value treats would be the soft chews and dog jerkies offered at almost all pet stores. The high value treat, basically stated, is human food. Hot dogs, string cheese, lunch meats and the like.

When training a pup any new command, it is almost inevitable that the high value treat will be required. The same goes for keeping your pup’s attention when confronted with higher levels of distraction. As stated earlier, the problem(s) begin when you have a pup that is out of the norm, a dog that is not so food motivated or highly energetic. There might be a treat that will motivate said dog but it will possibly take a while to identify that treat which gets his attention. Dogs that are not treat motivated will take more time to train as most commands require a dog to assume a position or preform and act. To assume a position, a pup is “lured” into that position then rewarded with a treat. If a pup is uninterested in the treat, it will not be lured with (will not follow) the treat. In these cases, the “traditional method” of training will be required. One places the dog into the desired position then rewards with Love.

Love is among the most effective ways to reward your pup for proper behavior (and hence a huge part of the “Traditional” method of training). It is also the reward that every dog will accept, even those dogs that are deemed by most to be “too aggressive” (there are VERY few exceptions). As with any reward (or correction), the reward needs to be presented with impeccable timing. Too early or too late and the pup will not associate the reward properly with the behavior you are expecting.

It is almost without exception, everyone not trained in the art of working with dogs disregards rewarding for all the desired good behaviors, the most basic reward - using the ability to love on your pup! Sounds easy doesn’t it, “loving on your pup”? Not so quick. Unless the pup you are working with is your own, most dogs will not appreciate you patting them on the head or scratching them behind the ear (It seems this is the common method of ‘loving’ on your pup when training). Well then, what is the proper method? When beginning with training, for every pup… slow, long, firm strokes along the dogs back and sides is the correct way to tell your pup they just did something correctly. The firm touch relays the message of strength from you. The slow administration of the stroke calms your pup. Three or four ‘pets’ is plenty to convey the ‘yes’.

Playing with your pup is the most valuable reward you can give your pup. Dogs are social animals and the more you interact with them, the closer the bond you will have. The trick to using play as a reward needs to be learned from a professional. It can be written and again shown in a video clip but nothing can replace the in person instruction from someone that can correct you for improper timing or even when not to reward your pup. As stated earlier, it is all about using the right toy in the right way for your dog combined with perfect timing.

One of the worst things a trainer / owner can do is reward (or correct) a dog at the wrong time for the wrong behavior.

Here are a few examples of when not to reward your pup;

A very important point to remember… NEVER forget to reward your dog for those behaviors that you want to promote! EVERY SINGLE TIME! We are all very quick at correcting the bad behavior, we need to be just as quick (AND WITH JOY) to reward our pups for doing what we ask of them.

When you have mastered the ability to reward your dog effectively, you will find that a sparkling new door has been opened to you in the world of dog training. One that is rewarding for you because you will see immediate positive results from your furry friends!

A word of advice; do not train on those days when you are grumpy or distressed! With certainty, your voice will be ‘off’, your timing will be off, your expectations from your dog will be off. You CAN and WILL do more harm than good.

EYE CONTACT

Fri, 23 Feb 2024 14:32:00 GMT

A Dog Trainers Knowledge of the Importance of Eye Contact

Let’s start with, what is the responsibility of a dog trainer? All dog trainers get into this business because of their desire to help dogs. Helping those dogs, as a trainer, inevitably means helping teach the owners of said dogs. Much the same as with motivating a dog to train, a trainer must also be able to motivate the owner to train with the dog. It is not nearly enough to take a dog for a few weeks to train and send it home. If the owners are unable to follow up with the training, the pup will very soon regress and the owners will be just as frustrated with their pup as they were before the training. Not a good impression for the trainer or the company he/she works for.

There is nothing more frustrating for the average dog owner than having a pup that will not look at them when called. There is nothing more satisfying than when your dog turns to you when called with those big questioning eyes. To train a dog and in the same breath to train a human, one must build their experience off small successes. That first step is a very easy one to determine, focus.

There is plenty of information on-line concerning the importance and meaning of eye contact with dogs. You can search “Eye Contact Dogs” and a plethora of information on the why and how it is good for you and your pup will pop up. You could also search “When is dog eye contact bad?” and similarly, a mass of information will be presented where issues may arise with a dog from too much, or ill-timed, eye contact. This blog assumes that you have already done some research or have experience with this abundantly represented information. What we are going to concentrate on is determining how eye contact will affect your initial decision making in the training process of dogs and their human counterparts.

“If you can get your dog to look at you, you can get him to listen”, a statement that I use in nearly every single training session with clients. The importance of eye contact cannot be emphasized enough.

The number one factor in having a well-mannered or a very well-trained dog (my opinion) is Focus. If your pup is paying attention to you, then the distractions that might cause your pup to misstep in any given situation can be largely negated. What exactly is ‘focus’? Yes, focus is certainly when your pup is aware of where you are, but specifically, it is when your pup is looking directly at you and making eye contact. Eye contact is the foundation to having superb focus on the handler. Without eye contact in the beginning, there is no true focus. Once a pup has learned to focus on you (started to bond with you), more advanced obedience is attainable. For the average dog owner, focus sets the stage for providing the dog with a structured life where it can thrive and the owners may be proud of the well-mannered pup they have. For the difficult pup, focus not only provides the basis for bringing structure into it's life but also promotes the bond needed for it to trust its owner. When considering doing dog sports with your pup, there is no winning without eye contact.

When teaching your pup ‘focus’, the end result should be to teach the pup three things; the pup’s name, to focus or pay attention to the handler, and what is largely missed by most trainers, eye contact with humans is a good thing!

First contact with a dog when conducting the initial evaluation;

Dogs can fall pretty much into three categories (there is a bit of gray area but not much), Neutral or normal dogs, Timid and Dominant dogs. The training for the neutral pup is relatively straightforward. The training for the timid dog will need to address the confidence issue(s) and the dominant pup will require more work in the leadership department. As a trainer, you will be interviewing first-time clients and their dogs to make an assessment on where to begin with the training.

The body language of a dog is without a doubt a big tell-tale sign of a dog’s nature. Understanding the body language of dogs will greatly increase your success with establishing the course of training. However, the one most significant sign is how a dog reacts to eye contact. Since eye contact for a dog can be directly related to a challenge, a show of dominance, its effect on the dog is invaluable information needed for every aspect of its training.

How does making eye contact with the dog in this first introduction impact training? The character of the dog needs to be determined and can be relatively easily identified by how the pup reacts to eye contact. With the client and dog in the interview room, the trainer walks in and approaches the dog intentionally making eye contact. The ‘normal’ pup will make eye contact for a few seconds and turn its gaze away not wanting to provoke hostility. It may just sit next to the parents or may willingly and with friendly intentions approach the trainer. The ‘timid’ dog may or may not allow eye contact. Regardless of eye contact, the timid dog will try to hide behind the parents or jump into the lap of the owner searching to escape confrontation. The dominant dog will lock eyes with you and not back down quickly, if at all. Sometimes the result of prolonged eye contact is aggressive behavior(s).

Regardless of the type of dog being worked with, Focus with eye contact IS the starting point and more important than any other aspect of the training. It needs to be reinforced continuously, especially for those pups with trust issues. For the vast majority of the dogs, getting eye contact is easily accomplished. Food or prey (play) drive can be used effectively to draw the attention of the pup up to the eyes of the handler. With timely rewarding for the eye contact in conjunction with the pups name being called, very positive results can be seen almost immediately, even with mild distractions.

Teaching dog parents how to promote eye contact and therewith focus should always be a priority. It results in immediate success, a crucial element needed by both dog and handler for motivation. That motivation is necessary for the owners to go home feeling confident that the time, energy and cost of training their pup is worth it.

As with the topic of eye contact with dogs, and the reading of dog body language, there is a ton of information on-line describing how to get and maintain eye contact. There is no single best method but the ones that work best are those that address the three main aspects, Name, Focus and helping the pups understand that eye contact is not a challenge.

Work focus with eye contact and watch your pups and clients begin to smile. The road to success has just been widened.

For more information on how to train eye contact, we will post a Youtube video soon - stay tuned!

Shiloh settling in to her new home

Fri, 19 May 2023 17:35:00 GMT

Shiloh meeting her new "siblings" for the first time!

The ears are up!

Barely 8 weeks old and already helping with the gardening :-)

Bringing home baby Shiloh

Fri, 19 May 2023 14:37:00 GMT

Ginny is all excited to go on a road trip to West Liberty, Kentucky with Mom and Dad to pick up her new baby sister!

Our first time meeting our new little baby! Thank you, Beth at 3B kennels - Beth's Best Bostons for allowing us to make that perfect little baby part of our family!

The ride home was long, but Shiloh did great! Ginny is madly in love with "her baby"!

Stay tuned for more updates!

Tri Canine Campus is expecting!

Sun, 16 Apr 2023 19:20:00 GMT

We are expecting a new Tri Canine family member and are proud to introduce Shiloh Kunzelman, born March 20th 2023 to the pack! Stay tuned for updates and follow our blog to hear about her training progress and puppy antics!

Shiloh is currently still residing with mom & dad at 3B Kennels in Kentucky https://www.facebook.com/TopQualityBostons and will be coming home mid May.

We can't wait to welcome her to her new home!